We stumbled on Baxter’s American Restaurant during its first week in operation. While that’s usually a recipe for disaster, the only mistake made by anyone was by me, not starting with the ceviche. This restaurant represents what Salt Lake City needs more of; a warm and cosy space, staffed by competent and friendly people, with basic but outstanding food.
At the Gateway
Baxter’s is located at the Gateway, in the old Union Pacific rail building, next to The Depot musical venue. It replaces the uneven Butterfly Restaurant, which evidently could no longer take the “meat-eating” scene and flew back to San Francisco. In its place sits a restaurant that describes its tomato soup as Comforting and its burger as “A Very Large Hamburger.” But don’t let their wit and basic comfort food fool you into thinking this is another T.G.I. Friday’s. If tomato soup isn’t your style, go for the Ceviche (more on that later). If you aren’t in the mood for the burger, try the Wine-Braised Lamb Shank. From what we tried and saw, you won’t be disappointed.
I have to admit that I looked at the menu online before arriving at the restaurant and I was worried. After you write enough reviews you start to ask yourself questions like, “how would I approach this menu.” At the top of menu sits a section called TO ORDER BEFORE YOU ORDER with items like pizza and onion rings. Next comes APPETIZERS with calamari, various salads, cheese, and soup. Then it moves into MAIN COURSES and SPECIALTIES. I just couldn’t imagine sitting down and ordering onion rings, followed by a salad, and then digging into Meat Loaf. It was a bit unusual and took me aback. Those fears were quelled when we sat down and my wife took one look at the menu and said “There are so many choices and they all look great.” I then realized my approach was completely wrong. Baxter’s is more akin to providing something for everyone; whether you want the burger or fillet, the pizza or ravioli you can find it.
The Food
We decided to skip the appetizers and head directly to the main course. That was a huge mistake. About 10 minutes after ordering, the table next to us received the ceviche appetizer. I thought it would be a simple bowl of seafood. In this case, it was large glass vessel filled with fresh scallops, fish, and calamari in a tomato-based sauce surround by pita chips. As the table’s waitress passed, we asked if that was the ceviche. With a big grin she said “yeah, it’s never too late.” Unfortunately for us, it was, as our main course was just delivered.
We soon forgot about the ceviche as we began to taste our Atlantic Salmon and Baby Back Ribs. The salmon had a tremendous but not overpowering pesto flavor. If you like pesto and fish, this is your dish. The fish was a little pink in the middle (which we were told about ahead of time). So, if you don’t trust that we can get fresh fish in Utah, you will want to ask for it cooked medium well. It was served with basic risotto which was prepared as it should be. The Baby Back ribs were fantastic as well. They were incredibly smokey, due in part to the Chipotle BBQ sauce. What made the ribs, though, was the mango chutney. The mango added a cool contrast to the relatively spicey ribs. The ribs were served with shoestring fries that they call haystack potatoes.
In general, the portions were on the small side, which I think is perfect. If I wanted to be stuffed, I would be at the Sizzler. That being said, we were left a little hungry and did what we rarely do… ordered dessert. I was leaning towards sharing a decadent chocolate dessert (chocolate ice cream, over a brownie, with chocolate sauce, and chocolate mousse). Fortunately my wife wanted to try the Cinnamon Sugar doughnuts. I am glad she did because it was the best dessert I have ever had. Two doughnuts, freshly fried and still steaming, appeared at our table. Two dipping sauces accompanied the fried delights: raspberry and chocolate. The raspberry sauce tasted like sweet, fresh raspberries. The chocolate sauce was dark chocolate and equally as wonderful. These weren’t my dad’s Krispy Kreme’s. Absolutely Fabulous.
The Staff
Living in Salt Lake City, I have become accustomed to sub-par service. There is a clear lack of professional waiters and waitresses in the city. Even when spending $75 on a meal for two you are more likely to get a college student who is a part-time waiter than someone who has chosen it as their profession. While it is still early for Baxter’s, the service staff was great from entry to exit. The hostesses seemed genuinely pleased that we were there and we were seated promptly. Our waitress had tried every item on the menu, and when we inquired about her favorite dishes, she asked us intelligent questions about what we liked. My wife was leaning towards the halibut and our waitress asked if she liked fried fish, because if she did it was great, but if she was expecting grilled fish then she would be disappointed (and she would have been). That one question likely saved my wife’s dining experience. Our waitress then offered the salmon as an alternative and commented that it was one of the best items on the menu. The manager of restaurant later came over to check on how our meal turned out. He explained that they had only been open for 4 days, that this was a soft opening, and that they still had some kinks to work out. We replied that they were well on their way to having a great restaurant.
One other service moment was handled very well. The area where we were seated was initially freezing. We were about to mention something when the table next to us talked to their waitress. Within about 5 minutes the vents were adusted and the area became cozy warm. While it’s a little thing, we have had numerous experiences where we ask the waiter to fix something like the heat and they can’t figure out how to get it taken care of. In this case, it was handled perfectly.
The Decor
I have been searching the city looking for a restaurant that is both warm and cozy. Right now, Baxter’s is the place for me. Inside it may initially remind you of Bambara, but it is far more interesting. They have used earth tones on the walls to make the inside feel warm. The designer chose to use a huge number of lights in varying styles and shapes. In one ten by fifteen area there are probably twenty round light globes at various heights. On the walls, are interesting pieces of art (look for the martini class with the figure diving in); on the floor are unique tables, surrounded by comfy chairs interspersed between booths and tables; on the ceiling are metal sails. It reminds me of The Bar at the Pennisula Hotel in Chicago, and like Em’s near the capitol, this isn’t your typical Salt Lake City restaurant, which is a delight.
Conclusion
The doughnut dessert perfectly sums up the Baxter’s experience. It’s unusual but delicious. It doesn’t take itself too seriously but is consummately professional. Our entire experience from beginning to end was exceptional. Only open for a few days, it was a surprisingly good. They seem to have hired well and are executing. It will be interesting to see where they are in six months. I only hope they keep the same level of passion.
Update (2/1/08): A concerned reader wrote to tell us that our characterization of the menu having “something for everyone” was incorrect and that a vegetarian would have a tough time here. We reviewed the menu and the while there are a number of smaller dishes that would probably meet a vegetarian’s needs (salads, sides, etc.), there doesn’t appear to be a vegetarian main course as of this update. If you are concerned, you may want to check out the menu before you go.
Update 2 (2/1/08): Baxter’s has updated their website menu to reflect the current prices.
Tip #1: Our meal was great but the waitress also suggested wine-braised lamb (if you like wine), the ravioli, and the meatloaf (if you like herbs).
Tip #2: If you are going on a weekend valet your car. It’s only $5 and well worth not fighting the Gateway crowds.
Tip #3: It’s on the north-east end of the Gateway. Look for the large ‘The Depot’ sign and the door is 50 feet to the right.
Tip #4: Here is the menu (note: they have lowered many of the prices about $4 from what’s on the Internet menu).
Tip #5: On a weekend, you probably want a reservation.
Baxter’s American Restaurant
13 N 400 W, Salt Lake City, UT
(801) 456-8999